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Beadlocks/OMF Rock Crawling Domes

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Tire setting on the wheel bead

Use flat blade screw driver to seat tire bead on wheel

Insure its seated all around, this is CRITICAL

Using air torque wrench spin down every other bolt

Use air power torque to speed up the job

Slowly closing the gap 

Every other bolt

Torque wrench on softest setting

Now the next set of bolts

Torque every other bolt until it clicks, not more than 1/2 a turn

Gap is completely closed

Job complete



Lots of folks now run beadlocks and they are a good wheel if you buy a top quality wheel such as the Walker Evans.  Part of the problem with beadlocks is that they bring on a new set of requirements in taking care of them.  And that is in the mounting of the beadlock its self.  When I started out with them it took 1 solid hour to torque down the 24 bolts on the ring.


Now I can do it in less than 20 min.  Its still just as good and I have developed some shortcuts that do not sacrifice the integrity. 


1)  The Setup:


1)  I find its easier to mount the wheel with it off the ground so you can spin it


2)  Lift, push and twist the tire on the wheel so the back bead it seated as far back as possible and the tire is centered


3)  Critical Step:  Insure that the front tire bead is setting on the beadlock rim ALL the way around.  If not it will leak!  Set the tire bead at the top of the wheel first, then with your hands at 9 and 3 position twist and push downward to get as much tire seated on the wheel as possible.


4)  Now taking a large flat blade screw driver, insert it between the wheel and tire bead.  Pushing down with the screw driver set the tire bead.  Check to see that its a good fit by spinning the wheel.


5)  Now place the ring against the tire and wheel and using one of your bolts insert it and give it a few spins by hand.


6)  Now insert a bolt in EVERY OTHER bolt hole


7)  Using your air torque wrench on the softest setting, spin the bolts down just hand tight


8)  This is where you will save some major time.  NOTE the gap between the bead lock ring and the wheel.  Slowly snuging the bolts down until you see the gap starting to close, then move on to the next bolt.  Do this until the gap is about 1/8 of an inch.


9)  Now install the rest of your bolts and follow the same procedure as in #8.  Slowly snug them down until the gap is almost completely closed.


10)  Pick your torque wrench and set it to the recommended setting for your wheels and torque down every other bolt not more than 1/2 turn or it clicks.  Then do the next set of bolts following the same procedure.


11)  Repeat this until every bolt clicks


12)  Now torque ever bolt in sequence until it clicks and continue going around until the torque wrench clicks as soon as you begin to put pressure on it.  This may take as many as 3 complete cycles for this to happen.


13)  Add air until you hear the rear bead seat, set the air at the pressure you desire and drink a cold one...


2)  OMF Rock Crawling Domes:


I picked up a set of these Domes from from my good friend Daraugh 'Bones' Flynn at OMF Performance Products.  These nifty domes are like a large dome shaped washer for the bolts on a bead lock ring.  They are dome shaped and add protection for the ring itself, the heads of the bolts and even provide some tire side wall protection in the rocks.  PLUS they will help your rig pull up and thru the rocks using the forged Aluminum domes.


OMF suggests using a dome on every other locking ring bolt and that works out great.  I use Grade 8 bolts and washers and I have found that I change them out on every tire swap or about every 18 months which ever come first.  By using the domes you can save yourself a costly regular Grade 8 bolt replacement.


And if that is not enough benefits they do make your wheels look a little better or so sez my wife.


Tell 'Bones' you saw on the SavageSun4x4 web site and he might give you a discount.


Give 'Bones' a call:  931 354 8272 or drop him a e mail:  bones@omfperformance.com


Click here to visit the OMF site:  Rock Crawling Domes


NOTES:  


1)  I have refined this procedure over several years and  this works well for my Walker Evans, other bead locks may be designed slightly different and need 'tweak' to this approach.


2)  While I generally adhere to the 'star' system of tightening nuts and bolts in this case there is legitimate latitude.  Following the star system on the 24 bolts is difficult at best in this case.  


3)  Using the method I provide here works just as well due to the way we close the tire-wheel gap and the malleability of the bead lock ring itself.  This allows the ring to easily and fully conform to the tire-wheel-torque.




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