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Currie AntiRock Arm Adjustment

How to set up your "AntiRock', 'Swaylock' or what ever version you have.  They are ALL just an AntiRock with either a release mechanism or a adjustable mechanism resulting in a dual rate...no more, no less.

Add 2.5 degrees to this number due to slope where I am parked

Currie AntiRock @ 11.2 deg (+)

Axle angle at 11.7 degrees (-)

Don't go more than 15 deg (+)

 That said in setting up your angle be it 0 degrees or + or - 'X' degrees requires a paradigm view.  Looking at the arms, the fulcrum/mounting point is is front and above your axle.  The arms swing in a fixed arc to the rear, which is physically limited by the tire hitting the bottom of the fender unit and by the final amount of droop allowed by the axle assembly.

 Since both axle and arm swing in an arc this becomes simple...Except when static the axle/arm are always swinging in opposite directions.  Whether in a + or - (above/below level ground plane).  Since the arm is above the axle in relation to the ground plane this rapidly leads to problem if a working angle is not established.

 Given that the amount of stuff is typically less than droop and the axle sits below the arm some compensation must be made.  Remember that both axle and arm are going AWAY from each other.  Then our solution is to raise the arm further into the + arc in order to gain more travel, higher in the arc and before the arm begins to get too deep into its own arc and going forward or AWAY from the arc of the axle.

This then begs the question of what angle do we use.  The answer is really quite simple.  What is the approx angle of the axle in relationship to the fulcrum point of the arm.  If raise your arm by the same amount + then the arm has an opportunity to travel and in effect get longer as the axle is beginning to drop.

Lets see if this works:  See pics

If you use a zero degree angle with the arm as soon as your axle begins to drop, the arm and axle are moving AWAY from each other.

NOTE:  Add 2.5 degrees to the upper angle of 8.7 in the pic to compensate for for sloping.  Total is 11.2 degrees + and 11.7 degrees - so my arm will travel further and OUTWARD towards the axle as it begins its drop to the rear.

That said this is NOT a hard rule as it will change with every Jeep depending upon the amount of lift.  It follows the law of 'diminishing returns'.  Generally speaking a + angle of not more than about 15 degrees works well.  Having never lifted beyond 3 inches I have not experimented with angles beyond 15 degrees.

Having run the Currie AntiRock for nearly 4 years and about 60k miles, which includes many highway trips up to about 3.500 miles I must take issue with the 'so-so on road'.

That said when viewing suspension you have to view it as a system of linked components.  Even tho Currie does not address this (few product builders do) from an engineering and systems paradigm the performance of the AntiRock  is 'so-so on road' UNLESS an adjustable shocks are integrated into the system.  The alternative is to put the adjustment into the arm itself, certainly a good solution but not the only one and in fact IMO I feel that it is lacking in comparison with an arm and adjustable shock.

Running without a front sway-bar:

But so often talk is cheap and only real world examples count:  Coming out of Prichett Canyon in Moab I snapped my Aluminum arm on my Currie AntiRock ( I posted this on JU and the thread is quite long with EVERYONE weighing in to include Currie Inc, do a search and be sure to read my last posts which gave updates as to what Currie did about it).  Since it was the last day in Moab and in the am I was heading out to Scottsdale, AZ, approx 475 miles South without a sway bar to stabilize my rig.

Things went fine until I cleared Moab and the highway MPH posting gave me the go ahead.  WOW talk about scary.  I slow to about 45 where the Jeep seemed to be reasonably stable.  But I had just turned a long 1-day trip into a longer 2 day trip and a set of white knuckles on the steering wheel...then it dawned on me that I could 'kick my shocks up a notch' (Rancho RS9000X).  

I pulled over and took them from the Pritchett Canyon soft 2 to about 6.  WOW what an improvement, lets pull over and try that again.  I cranked them to the max 9 all the way around.  Ooops too much.  I ended up with '8' up front and '7' in the rear, drove home at a safe 60-65 mph with a stable Jeep.

Summary:  I am not trying to tell anyone what setting (very firm to very soft) to use.  The purpose is to answer the question of 'what angle do I set my arms at.  There are many variables, lift, long arms, short arms and we can go on and on.  This was written for the folks that have a lift between 2 and 4.5 in.  And it serves as a starting point, no more, no less.

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