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Nortiz Tankless Hot Water Install Part II

Whole house water filter

Inserted 1 inch T off main gas service

Laying out plumbing

Outside venting

Unit hung on wall

Vent thru outside wall

Installed, painted and complete

page 2 cont'd:

4)  After gathering all the parts you think you will need, shut off the water supply and gas supply to the house and to the old unit.  Remove the old unit and begin the prep for the install.  I used all copper 3/4 in and sweat joints.

TIP:  This is a good time to make and modifications.  I added a water softener and a whole house water filter and plumbed them in line before the tankless unit.  I also added a sweated copper connect after the softener and filter to provide water to the ice maker in our refrigerator we have in the garage.

TIP:  I also added cutoffs for the water supplies to the tankless unit and before the water softener and filter.  This makes any future changes or modifications very easy.

TIP:  Chances are you have gate valves on your old unit.  Spend the few extra dollars and get the ball valves.  The gate valves typically restrict water flow and they have a round on-off handle like an outside water valve.  Ball valves are full diameter and they use a simple lever on-off.  YES you can expect a slight improvement in water flow.

5) Test hang the tankless unit, softener and filter to get an approximation of where and how to plumb.

TIP:  Flex lines really help as you get to the final stage of the install.  I used 3/4 in flex stainless x 18 inch hot water tank connectors and a flex copper for the pressure valve.


1)  Plumbers wrench

2)  Teflon tape rated for gas installs (yellow in color)

3)  If you sweat then a MAPP gas torch with silver solder and water soluble flux.  Be sure to have a fire extinguisher as you will be sweating/unsweating existing joints in the wall

4) Common plumbing tools, pipe cutter, sand paper etc.

5)  Pick up a 8" x 10" firecloth to protect, good to about 2000 degrees, $15 at Home Depot


We spent about 4 afternoons on it.  If you were to only switch out tank for tankless it would be an easy job of 4 to 6 hours.

Skill level:

If you can sweat copper joints and have installed sink faucets and fixed other plumbing issues at home then this should be well within your ability.  The Noritz installation manual and the optional vent and valve package truly make this a homeowner install.  I did have 4 plumbers bid on this and the low bid was $2800 and the high bid was $800 per hour plus parts or near $4000.


To replace my existing tank unit with another one of top quality with a 10+ year warranty, unit, plus parts installed was about $1,200 +/-.  I bought the Noritz shipped to the house with stainless steel vent kit and stainless steel/nickel valves for $1,349 and installed it with a friend of mine who help was invaluable.

I would strongly recommend a helper and someone who is also understanding of basic plumbing.  That said neither of us had ever installed a tankless unit.

Adding in the copper piping and various pieces "T's", elbows etc, whole house water filter and water softener it was a bit less than $1600.  But I used a lot of copper in moving and adding a whole house filter, water softening unit, water tap for the fridge and the unit itself


We can run the washing machine, dishwasher, take a shower and my wife can take her "tub", do it all at the same time and never run out of hot water.  The unit set to provide water at 130 F.

month 6:                  13 therms $21.45    (September)

month 5:                  13 therms $21.00     

month 4:                  13 therms $21.26     

month 3:                  14 therms   $28.03  First full month, lowest bill in 4+ years

month 2:                  22 therms  $46.41  with tankless unit, partial mo

month 1:                  59 therms  $106.70 without tankless unit

Bottom line:  Albeit some of the months above reflect summer usage the fact is my tankless system is costing less than $25 a month.  I only have gas going to the tankless unit and the house heat.

Return to part I click here:

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